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the
Apuseni Mountains |
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In
Western Romania lies a splendid
mountain plateau that is little
known: the Apuseni Mountains. The
main access roads in the country
swing around it, the towns are
built at its margins. It’s a
huge plateau cut in 2 by the
scenic Aries River. The nature is
green and unspoiled, the forested
hills change with colorful open
meadows. Numerous rivers have cut
spectacular canyons and created
the most fascinating caves. You
could name them “the Green
Mountains”.
Experience
the very warmhearted hospitality
in a region where tourism is still
relatively new and every guest is
welcomed as a friend of the
family. This page is a window
to the beautiful landscapes,
unique nature and people of the
Green Mountains; The Apuseni
Mountains.
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The
Apuseni Mountains have a complex
heterogeneous geologic structure. During
millions of years the mountains were
several times lifted up and submerged by
the sea. Different climates, starting with
tropical, then subtropical and later
glacial climates followed each other. In
this relative small area you'll find a
geologic mosaic of conglomerate, crystalline,
volcanic rocks and
limestone. There is iron, silver and even
gold.
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Big
predators in the Apuseni
Brown
bear and wolves are still roaming the
Carpathian Mountains in Romania. Although
the Apuseni Mountains are populated, bears
and wolves are also here. They are wild,
this means it is not easy to see them. You
don’t find them around garbage bins,
around holiday houses. The best time of
the year to see the bears, is during
spring when they are hungry from their
long winter sleep. In the summer months
they move to the very remote area’s
because there are people in the mountains
to collect mushrooms, berries, shepherds
and harvesters.
Wolves can be spotted at daytime in
the winter months. The rest of the year
they mostly move at night, searching for
prey near the sheepfolds. Their yellow
eyes sometimes lit up in the lights of the
high beams of the car when you pass a
sheepfold. They don’t seem to be
dangerous to men. There should be lynx and
wild cats as well, but they are extremely
shy and move only by night. |
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The unique flora of the Apuseni Mountains
makes the region extra attractive. Several
micro climates and the complex geographic
structure of the mountains created ideal
conditions for a wide variety, numerous
endemic and even a lot of extremely rare
plants.
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Harvesting the forest is still mostly pure man and
horse-power. Logs are moved down the
slopes by horses, then transported with
horse and wagon to the summer villages
where they are cut to timber. Most of
these remote places have no electric power
and all mechanized tools are somewhere
powered by tractors or other engines.
That means also that there is no
electric power in the wooden cabins where
the people stay for the summer.
They come up around the 20th of May and
stay for 3 months, till end September, the
time the grass is gone. The men cut and
transport the trees and cut them to
timber. The women take care of the
household and the farm animals and often
help loading, unloading timber. One of the
best places to see this is the Calineasa
meadow, near the village Poiana Horea
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Things
don’t change much in the mountain
villages. Since ancient times people live
in, around and from the forest. The people
made huge pastures higher up in the
mountains where they herd sheep and
cattle. These open meadows are colored in
spring and summer by millions of flowers,
many species since long gone in western
Europe. The shepherds move with the sheep
up in the mountains in late May, only to
return end September. Some shepherds are
herding their own flock, others are herding
the sheep for the whole village and are
paid a percentage of the cheese. Some
shepherds stay for the whole summer at the
same spot, others move around and sleep in
handmade mobile wagons. The sheep are
milked up to three times a day and the
milk is directly processed in cheese. The
shepherds stay with their huge sheepdogs
day and night around the flock to protect
them from wolves and bears.
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The legend of
Miorita or the legend of the lamb
This is a pastoral, archaic legend about life, death,
destiny, existence, typical for
the Romanian people. It is a poem
that exists over many decades and
is only passed by word of mouth.
The legend exists in more than
thousand versions over the whole
territory of Romania, but the
essence is the same.
There are 3 shepherds, one from Moldavia, one from Wallachia
and one from Transylvania. The
Shepherd from Moldavia and from
Wallachia plan to kill the
shepherd from Transylvania because
he has more and nicer sheep.
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But one of the sheep hears them whisper. This sheep, named
Miorita, has supernatural power; it goes to the shepherd from
Transylvania and tells him about the complot. Instead of running
away or standing up against his aggressors, the shepherd tells
Miorita that this then will be his destiny, his fate.
He tells her: “every summer you have 3 lambs, if you are my
sister, if you are a magician, tell everything to
everybody, to burry me in the sheep-fold, the
place where you keep the lamb, in the back of the
barn, let the dogs howl,” and so on.
It is seen as a characteristic legend for the often passive
and fatalistic attitude of the Romanian population
in face of death, in face of an aggressor. Death
is seen here as peace in the middle of nature. The
shepherd sees his death as a cosmic marriage, he
accepts his death, he doesn't fight, but
transforms his misfortune in a fairy sacred
mystery where he triumphs over his own destiny.
For his 'marriage' the mountain will be his
priest, the
birds will be the musicians, the guests the sun,
the trees, the moon.
His death is in fact his union with nature, his return to
dust and ashes, “to burry him, in the sheepfold, to see his
sheep, to have near me what I'm missing.” |
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The region to the west of Cluj Napoca is dominated by the
enormous Vladeasa Mountain. The more than 1800m
high ridge is the first barrier after the flat
plains of Hungary. The Vladeasa Mountain itself is
an old volcano, but the surrounding mountains are
mainly limestone. The region is world wide known
for its magnificent caves, the largest and finest
of Romania. The southern border of the region host
one of the most spectacular nature reserves of
the country: Padis. The Hungarian minority names
this region the “kalotaszeg region”. Their
culture and traditions survived here stronger then
in Hungary. Their beautiful colorful handwork got
attention during several world expositions at the
end of the 19th century and ever since people
produce all kind of embroidery that can be seen
and bought in the region. Manastireni, Valeni and
Izvoru Crisului have some lovely examples of the
typical “Kalotaszeg”
church with very steep steeple and roof covered
with wooden shingles. The ceilings are beautifully
decorated with century old wooden cassettes. 25km
long Fintinele lake is the highest of a chain of 4 lakes on the Somes River. A
beautiful region to fish or for boat trips. Marisel,
Rogojel and Maguri are some of the highest
settlements in Romania. An enormous forest
stretches for 100km from the Vladeasa mountain in
the west to the Trascau mountains in the east.
It is a perfect region where you can make
beautiful hikes or bike along the thousands of
kilometers of forestry roads, a region where predators
as wolf and bear still roam the remote
valleys, a region where nature was mainly left
untouched.
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The Aries River
dominates the center part of the Apuseni
mountains. The region is known for its spectacular
landscape with narrow gorges, lovely valleys,
steep slopes and you’ll find here one of
Romania’s most impressive monuments of nature:
the Scarisoara Ice cave. Near to this cave are
dozens of other caves. All along the Aries valley
lovely villages are built on the river banks. The
upper part of the river is homeland to the local
highlanders “the Moti”. They are masters in
woodcarving and make dozens of different household
items. Their huge wooden barrels are known all
over the country and you might see them on their
typical long wagons dwelling the countryside. The
narrow Aries Valley couldn’t offer space and
grassland for the growing population and people
and their animals had to move over the years
higher and higher in the mountains to find
grassland. In the beginning they just moved during
the summer months, later on, some of this summer
villages became permanent settlements now the
highest of Romania. Still people move to the
higher alms during summer and unique for the
Ghetar region is that even all farm animals move
along during this “transhumance”. In the past
the people communicated with wooden horns "bucium"
named. They are still made in the region. The
highest peak of the Apuseni, the Biharia mountain
with 1848m dominates the region and guarantees
snow from mid fall till mid spring. The region is
bordered in the north-east by
Padis nature reserve, a fantastic limestone
region with numerous caves, canyons and enormous
dolines. The Aries River offers also nice kayak
possibilities. In the village Arieseni is a small
ski slope with chairlift. The upper Aries valley
is a true all year round tourist highlight. |
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The Northern Apuseni Mountains are warmer and dryer. The region is dominated by the Trascau and Muntele Mare Mountains. Up and between these ridges are some superb nature reserves. There are the
Turda, Rimets and Intregalde Canyons. There is Scarita
Belioara, a superb limestone nature reserve at 1000m altitude, one of the earliest reserves in the country.
Because of the difficult access roads, many of the mountain villages remained unchanged. It is one of the
most interesting ethnographic regions with old watermills, typical farm buildings with straw roofs, wooden ox wagons.
The people live mainly from agriculture and also here farmers move to remote
summer villages where they stay during the
summer months.
There are many superb monasteries in the
region. The village Rimetea is unique. It was during the middle ages the center of iron mining for the region.
Once a town, now it is a quiet village resting on the foot of the impressive Piatra Secuiului Mountain. The rich past of the village can be seen in the local ethnographic museum and some mine galleries still remained in the mountains. |
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The town Cluj Napoca to the north west of the
Apuseni Mountains has a rich past. About 2000 years ago it was
called Napoca and was a Municipium in the Roman era. The Saxon
colonists in the early middle Ages called it Klausenburg. They
built together with the Hungarian colonists the defense walls
and fortification towers that once surrounded the medieval town
till the 19th century. They were destroyed when the new town
grew outside the walls. Also the Habsburg left an important
architectural heritage in Cluj. When you walk around in Cluj you
find medieval Saxon style buildings together with neo gothic
style, baroque style, empire style and classicism. The
history museum has an interesting collection of Roman edifices
and the ethnographic museum displays a rich collection of
costumes and house hold items. There is even a small open air
section with several farms, watermills and a wooden church.
Nature lovers will especially enjoy the Botanical garden.
Accommodation can be found in 2, 3, 4 star hotels. There is a
wide variety of restaurants, tea rooms and bars. |
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